Thekkady and Periyar: what to book and when

Periyar's lake was created by a dam in the 1890s — the dead trees standing in the water are the giveaway.

Thekkady is the town; Kumily is the settlement you actually stay in; Periyar Tiger Reserve is the reason to come. The reserve sits on the Tamil Nadu border, and the lake at its centre is artificial — flooded when the Mullaperiyar dam was built in the 1890s, which is why bleached tree trunks still stand in the water.

The boat safari

The government boat cruise on Periyar Lake is the headline activity, and the single thing most worth organising in advance. Several departures run through the day, tickets are limited, and they sell out — particularly the early morning one, which is also the best for animals.

Be realistic about what you will see. Elephants at the water's edge are common. Sambar, gaur, wild boar and plenty of birdlife are likely. Tigers exist in the reserve and are almost never seen from a boat. Anyone promising otherwise is selling something.

Take the earliest slot you can get, sit on the side facing the shore, and bring binoculars if you have them.

Beyond the boat

Bamboo rafting is a full-day guided trip — trekking plus rafting on the lake with a forest guide, small groups, booked through the reserve. It is the best way to actually be in the forest rather than looking at it, and it is strenuous.

Border hikes and nature walks run in shorter formats, usually early morning.

Spice plantations. This is cardamom and pepper country and the tours are genuinely interesting — vanilla, nutmeg, coffee, clove, all growing together. Most take about an hour.

Kalaripayattu and Kathakali shows run most evenings in Kumily. The martial art demonstration is the more surprising of the two.

How long to stay

One night is enough for the boat safari and a spice tour. Two nights if you want bamboo rafting, which eats a whole day. Thekkady also works well as the midpoint between Munnar and the backwaters, which is why it appears in most five-day itineraries.

Getting there

About 140 km from Kochi, four hours, climbing through Kottayam or via Muvattupuzha. From Munnar it is roughly 110 km of hill road and takes about four hours despite the shorter distance.

Practical notes

• Book the boat cruise before you arrive if you can; queueing on the day often means an afternoon slot.
• Mornings are cold at 900 m — more than people expect.
• Plastic bottles are restricted inside the reserve.
• Kumily is walkable; you will not need the car in the evenings.

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